| Loud bang; opener strains and the door lifts a few inches or not at all |
Broken torsion or extension spring, often on the first sub-zero morning |
HIGH: DO NOT LIFT
|
Keep the door down. Do not pull the release cord with the door up. Book spring replacement. |
$143 to $333 per spring |
| Door starts down, reverses, opener light blinks |
Photo-eye sensors misaligned, fogged with frost or blocked |
LOW: TRY DIY FIRST
|
Wipe both lenses, clear the floor, check that both indicator lights are steady. Still failing? Sensor repair. |
Often $0 DIY; otherwise part of a $150 to $370 repair |
| Door hangs crooked, one cable loose or wrapped wrong |
Cable off the drum, snapped cable or bent track |
HIGH: STOP USING
|
Stop using the opener, keep people and cars clear. Book off-track repair or cable replacement. |
$150 to $350 |
| Door will not budge on a cold morning; opener hums then stops |
Bottom seal frozen to the slab |
MODERATE
|
Disconnect the opener, free the seal gently with warm water or a plastic scraper. Replace a torn seal: weather seal replacement. |
$85 to $200 |
| Opener hums or clicks, nothing moves; wall button and remote both dead |
Stripped drive gear, failed capacitor or logic board, or a tripped breaker |
LOW
|
Check the outlet and breaker, then the release cord. If the door lifts by hand, book opener repair. |
$100 to $250 repair; $315 to $452 new |
| Grinding, squealing or shaking on the way up |
Worn rollers, loose hinges, dry bearings or thickened grease |
MODERATE
|
Lubricate hinges and rollers with a garage door lubricant, not grease. Persistent noise: roller and track repair or a tune-up. |
$120 to $250; tune-up $75 to $150 |